
{"id":255,"date":"2017-05-18T00:15:06","date_gmt":"2017-05-17T14:15:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/bakke.online\/?p=255"},"modified":"2019-02-13T13:34:27","modified_gmt":"2019-02-13T02:34:27","slug":"soldering-headers-to-boards","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/2017\/05\/18\/soldering-headers-to-boards\/","title":{"rendered":"Soldering headers to boards"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>When buying microcontrollers, breakout boards and the like, they often come without headers.<\/p>\n<p>In order to plug these boards into a breadboard, we&#8217;ll have to solder some headers on to them. \u00a0Doing so is quite easy.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_200754.jpg\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Most boards have 2.54mm pin spacing, so if your board did not come with headers, you&#8217;ll find suitable header strips in almost every electronics shop. \u00a0Look for something like this:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/littlebirdelectronics.com.au\/products\/40-pin-header-terminal-strip\">https:\/\/littlebirdelectronics.com.au\/products\/40-pin-header-terminal-strip<\/a><\/p>\n<p>These strips snap off easily to the desired size, just double check that you have the correct number of pins before you snap. \u00a0As an example, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.adafruit.com\/product\/2471\">Adafruit&#8217;s Huzzah ESP8266<\/a> breakout board have two rows of 10 pins each, in addition to 6 pins for FTDI.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_200754.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-256 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_200754-1024x778.jpg\" width=\"840\" height=\"638\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Insert the two 10-pin headers into the breadboard so that the breakout board will fit on top of them. \u00a0The headers go with the long side of the pins into the breadboard, the short side poking out. \u00a0Make sure the headers are flush with the breadboard. \u00a0If you look at the image below, you can see the nearest one is not straight and even. \u00a0If left uncorrected, this will make the breakout board wobbly, making it difficult to get a good result.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_200846.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-257 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_200846-1024x885.jpg\" width=\"840\" height=\"726\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Place the breakout board on top of the headers, which will then poke a couple of mm out.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_201112.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-258 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_201112-1024x663.jpg\" width=\"840\" height=\"544\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Orient the breadboard so you have good and easy access to the pins with the soldering iron coming in from the left or right. \u00a0The solder comes in from the other side.<\/p>\n<p>Make sure the iron is nice and hot, and importantly, clean. \u00a0Coat the tip with a bit of solder and touch the tip to where the first pin is poking through the hole in the breakout board. \u00a0This heats both the pin and the copper ring on the board. \u00a0With a hot iron, things get hot enough within a second or two. \u00a0Touch the solder to the hot pin and it will melt, flowing down around the pin and locking it securely to the board. \u00a0Check your work visually and move on to the next pin.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"840\" height=\"473\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/XWZ-zT_c6Nk?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Just a few seconds per pin is enough. \u00a0Spend too long heating it and the heat will spread to other components on the board, loosening them, melting plastic, overheating sensitive components. \u00a0If you don&#8217;t get the solder flowing well enough, remove the iron from the board and let it cool down before you continue.<\/p>\n<h3>What if my board only has pins on one side?<\/h3>\n<p>If your breakout board only has pins on one side, you will need to support it on the other side to make sure the board will not wobble and that the header goes on at a right angle. \u00a0A spare bit of header strip works well.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_202628.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-259 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/20170517_202628-1024x792.jpg\" width=\"840\" height=\"650\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When buying microcontrollers, breakout boards and the like, they often come without headers. In order to plug these boards into a breadboard, we&#8217;ll have to solder some headers on to them. \u00a0Doing so is quite easy. Most boards have 2.54mm pin spacing, so if your board did not come with headers, you&#8217;ll find suitable header &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/2017\/05\/18\/soldering-headers-to-boards\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Soldering headers to boards&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,14,1],"tags":[8,13,15,26],"class_list":["post-255","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-arduino","category-electronics","category-uncategorized","tag-arduino","tag-beginners","tag-electronics","tag-soldering"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/255","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=255"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/255\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1342,"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/255\/revisions\/1342"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=255"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=255"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bakke.online\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=255"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}